surfing

I love telling people that I've gone surfing. It's such a unique and niche thing to have as a hobby. And it makes me seem cooler than I actually am.

I went surfing for the first time in 2022, right after covid. My dad suggested it randomly for my holidays, and since we didnt have anything better to do we took a roadtrip to Mangalore to surf.

In Mangalore, they have these Surf Schools where you pay for the surfing classes and they provide housing and food in return for community. I loved that place. I met such wonderful people and instructors that made me glad that i tried a new thing out.

My second time was a year later in Chennai. I was still a beginner and I wanted to explore different beaches and places. The waves there were bigger and harsher. The first few days were fine, but one time the waves became so big that I could actually see the ground from a higher point of view.

If it wasn't for my Instructor I would be underwater now. I still had a great time and my body was aching for days from the strain.

I felt that if I could surf there, I could surf anywhere. When I visited USA, I was fully prepared to go surfing in the cold waves in California. But one look at the other surfers and the waves made me run back to the car.

Surf culture is such a beautiful thing. The community and bonds that are formed through such a sport last for life. Even though we are strangers to them, the fact that we want to learn their sport makes them extremely welcoming. Each time I'm able to catch and ride a wave, they all cheer for me, no matter which place I'm at.

The latest times I went were in Varkala, Kerala. The waves were so calm there but it was still fun riding them. I felt more at ease on the board compared the my first few times. The instructors were very friendly and patient. They remembered me when we went back again months after.

I must say that it is an extremely tiring sport. I'm not a very active person, so after one day of surfing all my muscles get sore and I crash the moment I get on the bed. But the rest I get after surfing and the thrill i feel are always worth it.

This is why I say I love trying new things. Even if I'm not the best and fall in the water more times than I can count, it's still something, and it makes me so glad to be able to try this out and say that I can surf.

I just need access to a beach now.